SMALL GUIDE TO BASIC CARE OF THE PERSIAN CAT:
1. The bathroom
3. The hairstyle
4. The cleaning of eyes and nose
5. The cleaning of ears
6. The nails
7. The water and the sprue.
8. Preparation for exposure.
9. The Persian cat as a pet.
1. The bathroom
Cats bathe! … and many times it is essential to keep your hair clean and healthy, especially for longhaired cats. Also in times of molting, the bath along with the daily brushing will help to eliminate these dead hairs from the undercoat and prevent them from sticking on all sides of our house.
We must distinguish between the baths we do to keep our cat clean and with a healthy hair appearance (about once a month) and the baths of those cats that will go to exhibitions, which logically will be done more often and in a more “conscientious” way (where we must also take into account that “each teacher has his booklet” and there are different opinions and different products used by each one.) I will refer to the first ones.
The ideal is to accustom the cat to the bathroom even from very young, that will make things easier since it will get used to this routine soon. We must bear in mind that bathing should never be a traumatic process for our feline, so we must speak in a soft and affectionate tone in order to reassure him, without making sudden movements and avoiding noises that may scare him.
Some important points before the bath:
– We must have prepared all the material: towel for the subsequent drying, shampoos, and the water already ready and at its correct temperature (neither too cold nor too hot).
– It is advisable before starting the bath to cut the nails to the cat to avoid greater evils (it is very common for the cat to want to escape and hold on to us (the one that more and the least if you can sneak).
– It is also very important to give a good brushing before bathing and make sure you go to the shower without any knot in your hair (if there is one not only would not be removed but it would enredaría hair and would become larger)
-We must monitor well the temperature of the bathroom area, usually the bathroom, which is not too cold because we can catch the cat cold; If so, and a little before starting the bath we can light a small heater.
Once everything is ready, I will explain the steps of the bath below:
1.1 Rinse the cat thoroughly.
We can do it in the bathtub with the tap of the shower or in a specific place destined for it. There we put the cat already with the tap of the shower prepared at the correct temperature and we hold it gently by the spine to avoid possible leaks.
1.2 Aplicar desengrasante (opcional) “>large “alignment =” center “style =” vc_box_border “border_color =” violet “onclick =” img_link_large “css_animation =” fadeInRight “]
In the specialized market there are products dedicated exclusively to eliminate that greasy aspect of the hair, which makes the hair look cleaner and silkier. Used especially by the exhibitors and applied to cats that are going to leave the exhibition. “css_animation =” fadeInRight “]
1.4 Apply Shampoo
There are many brands in the specific market, many of them divided according to the type and color of the hair, and there are also color enhancers. Many of us also use specific shampoos for humans and many with excellent results.
We will now give the first soapy shampoo with a small massage, distributing it well all over your body to create foam.
Once well clarified, we will catch the cat holding it with our hands and we will drain it a little to eliminate part of the water.
Then we will place it on the towel that we had previously prepared and we will rub it well to remove as much moisture as possible, which will facilitate the subsequent drying. Once this is done we can go to the dryer.
2. The Drying
First we must have prepared all the utensils we are going to use (mainly hand dryer and comb).
There are many cats who get scared when confronting the dryer for the first time and especially when turning it on, so it can help to turn on the dryer before taking the cat.
We can use a normal hand dryer (the more powerful the better) although there are also professional air dryers and expellers on the market. One of the advantages of these professional dryers is that it allows us to leave our hands free and thus we can manipulate the cat better.
On this say that there are cats that tolerate more or less the dryer, some will tolerate it without any problem and others will tolerate it on but without movements. If for the latter what we are going to use is a normal dryer, the ideal is to be able to place a “porta -ryer” similar to the one in the photo below, thus obtaining a “hands-free” similar to the professional dryers-ejectors.
If we can not get one, what can be done is to leave the dryer motionless on a towel and put the cat in the direction of the air, or try those small heaters used for the bathroom that give off hot air and make very little noise.
But undoubtedly the most comfortable option and especially suitable for beginners is to do it in pairs: One holds the dryer and the other combs and manipulates the cat.
Note: Do not present the dryer on the cat if it does not come directly from the bathroom, it is curious as sometimes the same cat can reject it completely if we put it dry without a previous bath or accept it with pleasure if it comes from the bathroom (when coming wet of the bathroom will appreciate that warm air)
We will begin to dry it. While one holds the dryer the other will comb it gently with the comb, separating the hairs until each hair is “loose” and free (hence the saying that “you have to brush it hair by hair“).
Beware of the temperature of the dryer !!
If it is very hot and we leave it fixed at the same point it can hurt you and obviously you will not like it at all. We can start with a warm-warm temperature to end up with a cooler air.
We will begin to dry it by the neck, back and sides.
Our movements with the comb have to be precise and constant so that drying is easier and we will comb it mainly against the grain, which will leave a bulky and more “fluffy” appearance
There are more sensitive areas for the cat (face, forehead, neck and some tail and extremities) that most do not like anything, these parts we can leave for the end and go giving them occasionally.
We must also pay special attention to your back area (be careful not to hurt the comb, we must raise the tail to have greater visibility) and to your extremities and underarm area where the presence of small knots is very common. To comb these areas we must pass the comb very carefully, if left we can try to put the cat “belly up” if not, we can stand on the hind legs holding the front (while one holds the other dry and comb)
Finally we will take care of the tail and legs.
The tail will comb also against the hair or in favor of the hair (depending on the finish we want to give), but the most important thing is that each of the hairs that make up the tail are “loose”
For the legs we will preferably use the card, combing them against the hair until they are well dried.
It is also a very good option to give these areas “at times” during drying, so at the end with a little review will be enough.
3. The hairstyle
The hairstyle must be daily. We should always have a moment a day to brush and comb our cat. When you get used to it, it will be pleasant and this will be the best way to avoid tangling your hair and consequently the unwanted “knots” do not appear (besides being unattractive the knots will cause the hair to pull on the skin and that will bother you ).
The comb is the most important tool for day to day.
The most recommended combs are like those shown in the photo, with long, thin tips that will penetrate well and allow us to remove all dead hair.
You can also use cards as a complement to the comb, but you have to be careful not to abuse them because we can pull a lot of hair.
3.3 How to comb it (steps)
– We will start by first combing the neck area (the “collar”) combing it down, eliminating all the possible knots that we find.
– We will continue to the area of the neck and body, combing it always in the direction of the hair, if you want in the end we can do it against the grain to give it more volume (action very common among the exhibitors at the time before presenting the cat to the judge)
– Finally the back will be combed very carefully from top to bottom. (being careful not to hurt him in genital area)
Special attention requires the combing of the tail, combing it against the grain or in favor of the hair depending on the finish we want to give it. The tail does not need to be combed daily while observing that the hair is loose and without knots (doing it once a week will be enough to keep it in good condition). The abuse of brushing in the tail can facilitate the appearance of fat, especially in whole cats (not castrated) and it is also possible that we remove much hair, leaving it consistently a tail if a lot of hair does not favor it either.
4. The cleaning of eyes and nose
Another of the basic aspects in the care of Persian cats and that brings many doubts to their new owners is the cleanliness of the eyes.
Many times these cats tear to a greater or lesser extent leaving them small legañas of we must clean well for two reasons: aesthetics (especially white cats or lighter) and hygiene. It is advisable to clean your eyes every day (at least once a day) either at the time of combing or first thing in the morning when we get up.
If the cat weep excessively it will be necessary to clean it more often and to go to the veterinarian in case it is necessary to prescribe some type of eye drop.
For cleaning, we will only use: cotton for female make-up removing.
Note: we must reject the common cotton and the toilet paper since these give off strands that can irritate or even do more damage to the eye. We must also reject conventional napkins and “wet wipes”
We will lightly wet the make-up cotton in warm water and thoroughly clean the cat’s eye, paying special attention to the lacrimal area, then we will dry it with another cotton such as this one (now dry) or with a dry wipe type those used for the babies.
As we said above in white or light colored cats, dirt will be more noticeable in the lacrimal than in the darker ones, so we can also use a solution of boric acid in water.
It can be easily obtained at the pharmacy (100 g powder canister).
Dilute 2 tablespoons of boric acid in a 500 ml bottle. then fill it with water (tempered to facilitate dissolution) and shake it until it is completely diluted.
We will apply it in the same way as we did before with the make-up removal cottons, but with special care that nothing penetrates the eyes, nose or mouth and then we dry it well.
The cleaning of the nose does not require so many attentions and often it is not even necessary, so we can do it in the same way that we do it with the eyes (Obviously we will NEVER use boric acid here)
5. The cleaning of ears
It should be done with some assiduity (more or less every 15 days) although it is true that there are cats that produce more wax than others.
For this you can use cotton swabs, but cleaning only the outer part of the ear and paying attention not to stick the stick inside the ear pinna because we could break the eardrum or cause an infection.
We can also do it with special toallias that we can find in the veterinary clinic or with wipes for babies (without alcohol)
6. The nails
We must learn to cut the nails ourselves without having to go to the vet as it will be less stressful for the cat. Cutting them with a certain frequency will prevent possible scratches and avoid the temptation to constantly sharpen them with a piece of furniture or a sofa in the house (if we cut their nails and install a scraper so that they can scratch it, this will not happen)
We can also find another problem if your nails grow too large: they can be stuck in the pads of the legs and consequently cause an infection.
To cut them we can use special scissors that we can find in any clinic, specialized store or through the Internet.
We only have to cut the tips of the nails, paying special attention not to touch with the scissors the pink part that we will see in the light of the nail, which is where the blood vessels are located (if this should happen or touch this pink part, do not be alarmed, that little hemorrhage will be cut shortly).
With a little pressure on your fingers, we will remove the nail so that we can see it better and be able to cut it easier.
If the cat gets nervous it is better to wait until it calms down (many times the ideal is to do it when the cat is calm, almost asleep)
7. Water and sprue
Another of the important aspects in the care and maintenance of our Persian, is their feeding. Needless to say, we must give you a good feed (preferably high-end, since these will be of higher quality) and that you should always have at your disposal in the same way that fresh water will always be available.
One of the problems that we find with the water, is that the cat will “flood” when drinking inside the conventional drinkers, putting the legs in the water and wetting all the hair of the collar that has taken us so long to wash-dry. comb.
Consequently, one of the disadvantages of leaving the hair of the collar wet is that the hair will rust and turn a dark and ugly color (especially in light colors) as well as facilitating the knots and quilts.
To avoid this, it is very common to use the so-called rabbit drinking troughs that make the cat drink only the necessary amount and not get wet. At the beginning it is normal that he does not know how to drink, but we can help him approaching his nose to the water outlet and showing him how it works (we can also put a bit of malt or multivitamins, something that he likes very much, at the water outlet to go to lick and discover how to get water out of that new pot)
Many people find problems when installing these types of drinkers. We propose a very easy method to install: By means of the support that the bicycles have to deposit the water bottle (we can get it in most of the sports stores) which we will screw to the wall at the appropriate height and there we deposit the sprue .
If we do not want or we can not make a hole in the wall, we can get a support-adhesive of those used in kitchen to hang rags, bread bags, etc … (in any hardware store) the latter we stick to the wall and in it we hook the bottle holder.
Another type of drinker that is usually used is the similar to that used in birdhouses or bird farms. It has a small saucepan down and the water tank up.
The latter is also good for those cats that do not manage to get used to the rabbit drinker.
8. Preparation for exposure
8.3 Hairs of the eyes
8.4 Hairs on the head
8.5 Tail hairs
8.6 Leg hairs
8.7 cheeks and lips (“the smile”)
We will expose in this chapter a basic preparation to present a Persian cat to an exhibition. We will try to be basic aspects because at this point there are different views and greatly influences the criteria and personal taste of each, so some will prefer to give a more natural look while others seek a more refined, but still these exhibitors who prepare in such a refined way they will never leave the cat with an unnatural aspect, they will always do it in order to highlight that roundness that the Persian cat should look like.
Also serve this chapter to give small tips so that beginners can apply to their companion cats and they do not intend to submit it to any contest or exhibition, simply by “putting them beautiful” and for their personal enjoyment.
I expose now, as we did in other chapters, a few previous tips:
– If you are going to take your cat to a contest or exhibition, it is advisable to practice before and do not leave everything for the last moment. So if we make some small mistake leaving it excessively unnatural, the hair can grow and recover.
– You can also practice with other cats (in case you have them) that will not leave the exhibition. Many times the secret is in practice.
– Some point of the preparation is recommended to do it between 3 to 7 days before the day of the expo (as for example the preparation of the tail) so after the appearance of the cat will become more natural, leaving for the previous day of the exhibition only the small touches (personally I do not like to prepare the cat, cut and retouch the same day of the exhibition already in the premises, I think that this should come from home, although surely there we will find some more exhibitors and breeders Experienced that if we ask him for sure they can help us with some retouching on the day of the show)
– Before starting with this preparation the cat must be clean and with the hair in perfect condition, if the hair is “shaggy” it will not be the same and it will be more difficult.
– The preparation should be done in a well-lit place, where we can clearly see the cat, so we can distinguish perfectly those hairs we want to cut or remove. It is also advisable to place ourselves in a good position with respect to light, where our body does not overshadow the cat (we can place ourselves, for example, in front of a window)
– Do not get obsessed with this section, the most important thing is that the cat has a clean and well-groomed appearance, only with a small touch-up you can present it without any problem, in fact there are great champions and highly recognized exhibitors worldwide. to his cats with a “very natural” appearance without wearing the hair cut millimetrically, that yes impolutos.
Fig. 1: From left to right:
Scissors to cut nails, scissors of blunt tip “toilet type”, scissors to sculpt, small comb (it goes very well for the area of the cheeks although its use may be optional since for this part we can also use the conventional comb on its side of finer and closer joints), normal comb and card (also optional).
Fig. 2: Scissors “toilet type” The ones in the photo are curves (although you can also use straight lines) and they are barely 6 cm. long. We can find them in specialized stores (the one in the photo was bought in a cutlery shop in the Plaza de Pi in Barcelona, in the Gothic Quarter, where there are several models to choose from).
These small scissors are very good because their size give a very precise cut, we use them for the area of eyes, ears and hairs that protrude from the head area in order to give a more smooth and rounded.
Important: When working with these scissors we must take special care when using them in the area of the eyes and mouth. For this reason, it is important that these scissors have a rounded tip (“blunt tip”) since this will prevent possible damage, especially in the area of the eyes. It is important that when we go to prepare it the cat is calm, we should NEVER do it if the cat is nervous or restless, if it is better to leave it for another time.
Fig. 3: Sculpting scissors
They have a smooth side and a serrated side (unlike the thinning scissors that have two serrated sides) also called scissors to empty. We will use them for the head and tail area (they can also be used to even out body hair, especially exotic ones). The advantage of these scissors compared to conventional scissors is that you hardly notice the cut, which will allow us to match all the hairs giving a more uniform and natural appearance.
We can find them in specialized stores or through the internet in:
8.3 Hairs of the eyes
As we have said before: it is a particularly delicate area and we will use only the small scissors with a rounded tip in order to avoid injuries (remember that the cat must be calm so that there are no sudden or unwanted movements).
First, we will comb the hairs just above the eye against the hair so that we can distinguish them well, we will do it with the small comb or the normal comb on its part with finer prongs.
Then cut all these hairs following the line of the eye and leaving them as short as possible.
Note: If it is the first time you do it, do it with great care, it is not necessary to approach and hurry so much towards the line of the eye, only to cut a little those longer hairs of the eyelid and you will see the difference.
Cutting these hairs will greatly change the expression of the cat and make it have a “more open” expression.
Once these hairs are cut from both eyes (make sure that the cut is as even as possible in both eyes) you will see that there is now a difference in height between the hair of the area that we just cut and that of the area a little more up (the forehead), so we will now go to the head area to try to match both sides
8.4 Hairs on the head
Once the hairs of the eyes are cut, we go to the hairs of the head. To work better, it is advisable to put the cat in an area where we can see perfectly each and every one of the hairs on his head (ideal near a window).
If we look at the hairs of the head in detail, we will see that there are some hairs that stand out more than others:
In this photo you can clearly see which of these hairs stand out, just as if we saw the cat in profile:
Now we will carefully cut all these hairs with the small blunt-tipped scissors (if they are curved better), until leaving a smoother and more polished appearance. We start first by the most prominent hairs in the forehead area and head, and then gradually go polishing more but without getting to introduce the scissors at all, we will always superficially.
In the area of the forehead we will find the “antennas” of the cat, there are breeders and exhibitors who prefer to leave them, considering that the cat has a more natural look and many breeders turn it into a “house brand”
GC Maradan Velocirraptor
Many others (the majority) decide to also cut these hairs from the antennae leaving the head completely smooth and polished. The two options are valid, but evidently the first one (to leave them) is more difficult because we will have to work between them and go separating them to cut the smallest hairs.
Once we have cut all those hairs, we will approach now and with the same scissors towards the eye area to even out the hair from above the eye with that of the forehead, here we will be able to put the scissors a little more until equal. It is very possible that in the area between the eyes, above the “stop” we also find some longer hairs that we can also cut with these scissors.
We now use the sculpting scissors to finish equalizing and polishing the entire head, until it is completely smooth and round. Now we can bring the scissors closer to the head since the cut will be barely noticeable, without the risk of piercing.
(we will take the sculpting scissors so that the smooth sheet, the notched one is closer to us)
We now go to the hair of the ears, something very simple but like the hair of the eyes makes the expression of the cat change a lot.
At the tip of the ears come some hairs (remember the tufts that come from the ears of a lynx) these should be cut with scissors blunt tip and we will approach as much as possible to the ear, leaving the ends more rounded . To do this we will hold the ear with the thumb and forefinger, thus covering the skin area and cut the protruding hairs.
NOTE: Needless to say, we must be careful not to cut the ear.
We finish this way with the head part, although many exhibitors also stick a small and last review to the back of the head, towards the nape area which makes the difference of the head with the rest of the spine, highlighting a little more the roundness of the head. Some do it happening with the scissors of carving in this area or by removing the hairs directly with the fingers on the marked area:
8.5 tail hairs
If we want we can give a more rounded look to the tip of the tail, for this we will do it first with the fingers and at the tip of the tail, removing a bit the longer hairs that protrude and giving it a round appearance, reminiscent of a “Shaving brush” (This action is recommended to do one week before the day of the expo so that in that time interval the hair grows a little and gives it a more natural look)
Then we can use sculpting scissors to finish matching and rounding the tail hairs. We will never do it with normal scissors since the cut would be seen.
8.6 Leg hairs
Also here there is diversity of opinions and many breeders and exhibitors prefer not to retouch these hairs, in fact the CFA association standard makes direct mention to the presence of these hairs that must leave the legs (the first cats classified in the no. 1 of the CFA ranking of recent years show it)
As a sample I put a picture of a cat that has been World Champion of another association (Fife):
WW. 07 KUORII BLACK CODEL OF WELCOME
However, if you want to leave the leg round, either why you like it more, for personal taste or because later it will allow you to cut the nails more easily, you can cut them using the blunt-tipped scissors and give a more rounded look .
8.7 Cheeks and lips (“the smile”)
It is a somewhat complicated point mainly because of two aspects:
1. The difference of opinions and criteria between breeders and exhibitors regarding the form and way of retouching and / or preparing this area (some will do it directly with scissors, others first with scissors to delimit the area and then with the fingers, others prefer to leave large cheeks and well rounded, others just enough to highlight more the height of the head, etc …)
2. The specific morphological characteristics of each cat, since there will be cats that have a lot of cheekbone in their constitution and consequently the cheek is defined very well, and cats where the opposite occurs and we have to make minimal or no retouching or it will be much worse .
I present below an approximation to how we do it:
To accentuate a little the shape of the cheek, we do it directly with the fingers pulling the leftover hairs in order to highlight that roundness.
The course of the cheek should follow the same line of the lip and should appear as natural as possible (imagine that each cheek is like a drop of water, whose apex or tip comes out of one end of the nose and follows the line of the lip, being its more rounded or external part the one that conforms the own cheek)
Taking into account all the previous aspects and considering that this guide is focused mainly for beginners, you should always take into account that you prepare your cat that it is better not to retouch than to overturn this premise must be your motto at all times.
To delimit the cheek in its external part we will take as reference an imaginary vertical line that starts from the external part of the ear, in this photo of the same previous cat you will see it better:
Once the cheek is done, we can remove those small hairs very close to the lip that cover a little the mouth area, with this the line of the cheek will be more defined. To do this we can use tweezers like in the photo, or do it directly with your fingers taking out these little hairs.
To finish with this area if you want we can now remove all those very small hairs that protrude from the mustache (not the antenna, but those hard and shorter hairs) we will do it with the scissors with a blunt point and again very superficially.
It is done directly with the fingers, removing those hairs harder mantle. In this section the texture of the hair and the color of the cat greatly influence and in most cases it is hardly necessary to do any retouching, I give you some examples of when it is usually done:
In light colors (diluted) these hairs usually have a darker color and ideally, the mantle of these cats is as clear as possible, so we can remove some of these hairs harder to give a clearer appearance to the mantle.
In dark colors (black and turtle) all white hairs (gray hair) should be removed:
In bicolors we can also remove the white hairs that come out
over the color area so that the color zones are well defined.
In the rest, hair removal is hardly necessary, although there are breeders and exhibitors who like to shave their cats more, but in many cases the presence of this hair makes the cat much more colorful and more natural.
I give you an example of a black cat in which you can clearly see the presence of this hard hair … and what favors it.
GC NW SCRIMSHAW TURBULENCE
We remember again the premise that we have put before:
“It is better not to retouch than to overcoat”
A cat can present itself perfectly to an exhibition, cutting lightly the hairs of the eyes, a little the hairs of the head and those of the tip of the ears. The most important thing is that the cat shows an optimal hair condition, that the hair is clean and shows a very healthy appearance.
Grooming can become an art and in this case:
“The Art of doing it well is doing it in a discreet way”
I put one last picture of the main protagonist of this guide: Thanks Jalea!
MARADAN JALEA OF CONQUERONE
9 The Persian cat as a pet.
So far all the above mentioned, makes this guide a great support for all new owners of a Persian cat (except for point 8, which is more specific for exhibitions). But if you still do not have it and are thinking about looking for a kitten of this breed as a pet or giving it to someone, the following question should be asked:
Cats are not like dogs and are more sensitive to this type of infection. However “clean” that site seems to us this will always be a risk. We must also remember that fungi (ringworm) are very difficult to eliminate and will spread throughout the house and also to humans. – Think about vacation days. The cat can stay quietly at home if it is one or two days, while you have enough food and fresh water. But if they are more days will need someone to lend their care. If the holiday is longer and you are thinking of one of those “feline nurseries” you will make the same mistake as the previous point regarding the possible spread of fungi and mites (even though the “nursery” we “sell” as “the most hygienic” that is very difficult to control. – Another point to consider is the open windows and / or balconies.The Persians are not usually extremely agile cats as it can be a common cat.We should pay special attention to open windows or balconies to prevent the cat from “jumping”.If you live on a high floor and the cat sees a bird or something that catches your attention in the window, you will not think about it and will be thrown for it, this is what is known as “parachutist cat syndrome” or “ “flying cat syndrome” (term used by veterinarians to refer to cats that have fallen over 7 meters or 2 floors high, with consequent injuries)
To avoid this it is advisable to keep the cat away from these risk areas and / or put mosquito nets on the windows. So if you are considering acquiring a Persian as your new pet because you like the breed, or because the cat seems like a “ pomponcito “or because it reminds you of” a teddy bear “must take into account everything in this guide, if you have doubts or are not sure it may be better for a dog or a cat with short hair that requires less care and They will undoubtedly give the same affection. On the contrary if you commit, you will undoubtedly be the ideal owner and you will be able to enjoy all the sweet, affectionate and calm character that characterizes this breed, besides being able to admire all the beauty and majesty of these precious animals. Congratulations for your decision! … and this is all, I hope that this “small” Guide will be useful, especially to all those new owners.
www.purrinlot.com/grooming-help.htm (vídeo kitten face-body grooming)